History of Men’s Leg Wear (Pants) Through the Regency Era by Suzi Love

Welcome to History Undressed, Suzi Love!!! She's written a fascinating piece on Regency clothing for us -- specifically men's leg wear. Love it! Enjoy!

History of Men’s Leg Wear (Pants) Through the Regency Era

by Suzi Love

Many names have been used for men’s leg coverings through history : Latin braccae, loin-cloth, breech-cloth, breech-clout, braies,  britches, Scots Breeks, trousers, pants, pantaloons, knickerbockers, plus fours, jodhpurs etc. Or even Oxford bags, a baggy form of trousers worn by members of Oxford University , especially undergraduates, in England during the early 20th century.

By the early 1800s, men’s clothing was rapidly changing. Culottes, or knee breeches, and their previous distasteful association with rich aristocrats, particularly in France, were being replaced by first pantaloons, and then trousers. ‘Showing-a-leg’ no longer seemed important as clothing, and lifestyles, became more relaxed.

Breeches before the turn of the century were looser fitting around the hips and made of wool, cotton, or linen, while some silk breeches were still worn on very formal occasions or at court. But coats became  higher cut in the front, so waistcoats and pants were more exposed and the style of pants needed to change.  

Breeches were fall-fronted with a broad fall, the early ones being very wide, hip to hip,  and gradually becoming narrower, hip bone to hip bone. Waistbands were buttoned and then the fall closed and buttoned over the top like a bib. A French Fly was fastened down the centre, but Englishmen resisted this style as it was considered a racy French style.

Riding breeches, or buckskin breeches, were still worn for comfort. These were tighter fitting and had either, or both, button and ties for fastening at the knees. They became longer, to the tops of long boots, while for daywear, pantaloons and trousers replaced breeches.

The word ‘Pantaloon’ comes from the French pantalon, from Italian Pantaleone, a traditional character in 16th-century Italian comedy and literally means a covering for each leg from waist to ankle.

Trousers were fairly close fitting and ended around the ankles, with slits on the sides for foot access. Some had under-the-foot straps to keep them anchored in place. For day dress, stirrups were worn under the shoe but for evening wear, under the foot.

Evening dress pantaloons and trousers were generally of white or black kerseymere or cashmere. Peg-Top Trousers, named for a peg-top cone-shaped spinning top,  were wide and pleated at the top and had very narrow ankles.

Evening dress stockings, whether worn with breeches or pantaloons, were white or natural colored silk, though by the 1820s black silk was popular.

Suzi Love is an Australian author of historical romance, from Regency to early Victorian, and from sexy to erotic.

You can find more of her historical articles at http://www.suzilove.com

And more historical men’s fashion at :

Fashion Men 1800- 1820 http://pinterest.com/suziloveoz/fashion-men-1800-1820/

A Bit of History on Drawers (See the drawers I made!)



Front of a pair of drawers I made.

 I love this history of underwear! I have so much fun with it :) Today, I wanted to give you just a tidbit on women's drawers.

Drawers came about in the late 18th century for females, however they weren't a commonality until around 1830 when women began to wear drawers/pantaloons/pantalettes almost all the time.

Back of the drawers.

Drawers were calf to ankle or knee length, made mostly of linen or silk. They were however used more widely by the upper class than the lower class. So ladies…we’ve technically only been wearing some form of underwear for 181 years to cover our lady parts down under…not that long… and if our ancestors weren’t nobles—which mine were Irish dairy farmers… it may have been that women in your family were only wearing underwear for maybe a century or so.


There is a difference between drawers, pantaloons and pantalettes. Drawers were shorter. Depending on your social status/wealth, the craftsmanship, fabric and frills would be completely different. Most drawers were crotchless. Why you ask? Have you ever helped a woman lift her wedding gown and shimmy down her panties to pee?  It is a TASK!  If only the bride would have gone commando or worn crotchless undies. Ah-ha! So, it made certain tasks much easier, you see? I'm sure their male counterparts were also pleased :)

Shows the "crotchless" section of the drawers.

Pantaloons and pantalettes often had pretty lace and embroidery along the bottoms—much like on the sample drawers I made, and were meant to be seen when a woman lifted her skirts, to say, walk over a puddle or up some stairs. Pantalettes, were not only crotchless, they were in fact two separate pieces that covered the legs and tied around the waist. Pantaloons, were more like an extended version of the drawers—coming down to the ankles.

Hope you enjoyed this short lesson!

Cheers,
Eliza